The area had mostly developed in the late 1800s, when the
cattle rearing trade that thrived from the watering holes that the swamps in
the area had provided. Buffalo Road was originally one of the oldest arterial
roads in Serangoon Road.
This road was also
known as Kampong Kerbau Race Course in Hokkien. The name originated from a
village, called Kampong Kerbau, which once stood there. A Chinese
transliteration of the Malay name “Kampong Kerbau” means “where buffaloes are
kept”. As such the road was named Buffalo Road as it was retiary a place where
buffaloes were kept.
In early Little India, cattle trade played a significant
role. Cattle
produce was not the only commercial value these animals had. They occupy a
vital place in the history of transportation in pre-war Singapore. Horses were
not widely used to transport goods, nor had motor-driven trucks made any impact
till the late 1920s. Hence, the bullock cart was the main transportation
vehicle for commerce till the inter-war years.
Milk Man
Buffalo Road was
specifically where both Bengali and Tamil Hindu milkmen brought their cows and
goats from door to door to provide milk for the residents. From this milk, the
Indians made an ethnic delicacy, “thairu”. It was a common sight to see Indian
women along Serangoon Road traveling from house to house to sell their fresh
‘thairu’.
There were also many fortune-tellers found along Buffalo
Road. In parrot-astrology, a parakeet picks a card from a stack of 27 lucky
fortune cards (an Indian astrological system). Each try used to cost a dollar.
These parrots were trained to select fortune cards with pictures of deities and
lucky messages, and entertain customers by dancing and being friendly with
them. In return, they were fed with fruits, nuts, and chilies to develop their
intelligence. Customers consult on a variety of matters such as marriage,
money, business and work, as well as visit on special occasions like festivals
and birthdays. In the early days, parrot astrologers were also commonly seen
making house calls, besides being along the corridors of shophouses, temple
grounds and streets, particularly during the festive seasons. Today, although
there a few of them left, everyone can still find one standing along Serangoon
Road with only a small table, parrots, some charts and a notebook.
Snake Charmer from Poona
Snake Charmers were also once part of the street scene of
pre-war Little India. These brave men would spread a canvas where there were
open grounds and entice the snakes to emerge from their baskets with their
musical flutes. Usually, a larger crowd would gather to watch these performing
serpents. Most of them would come from a village called Poona in Bombay. There
were many other colours, fragrances and sounds of Serangoon Road that made it
“Little India”. From the flower and garland stalls to the spice and textile
shops of the famous philanthropist, P Govindasamy Pillai, Serangoon Road was,
has been and still is, the place Indians from all over Singapore come to meet
their “Indian needs”. Especially during Thaipusam, Deepavali and other prayer
and festival days, Serangoon Road comes alive.
References
great read!
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